Detailed Solution

Type of Pointing	Where to Use
Grooved Pointing	This type of pointing is commonly used to improve the wall appearance.
Tuck Pointing	This is used where attractive appearance is required.
Struck Pointing	This type of pointing is mostly used for brickwork particularly for finishing horizontal joints.

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What is pointing on brick work?

Pointing, in building maintenance, the technique of repairing mortar joints between bricks or other masonry elements. When aging mortar joints crack and disintegrate, the defective mortar is removed by hand or power tool and replaced with fresh mortar, preferably of the same composition as the original.

Which of the following pointing is extensively used in brick work and stone masonry face work?

1. Flush Pointing – In this type, mortar is pressed hard in the raked joints and by finishing off flush with the edge of masonry units. The edges are neatly trimmed with trowel and straight edge. It does not give good appearance. But, flush pointing is more durable because of resisting the provision of space for dust, water etc., due to this reason, this method is extensively used.

Why is it called brick pointing?

Pointing is the term given to the ‘finish’ that is between the bricks or stone used to build your house. Depending on the age of the building, the mortar used to lay the stone or brick will either be made from lime, or more recently, cement.

What are two types of pointing used in facing brickwork?

We use cookies to ensure we give you the best experience on our website. You can find out about our cookies and how to disable cookies in our Privacy Policy, If you continue to use this website without disabling cookies, we will assume you are happy to receive them. Close, When masonry structures are first constructed, mortar is applied as a thick paste which sets hard as it cures, creating a tight seal between bricks and blocks to prevent air and moisture entering into the construction, Depending on the age of the building, the type of masonry, and the nature of the overall wall construction, mortar used for pointing will be either lime mortar or cement mortar,

Flush: The mortar is finished off flush with the face of the masonry units, Recessed or raked: Mortar is pressed back from the face of the masonry units by 5 mm or more. This creates a shadow gap between the masonry units, Beaded, concave, half round or bucket handle: A more rounded type of pointing with a concave edge. This can look aesthetically pleasing, but it may damage more easily than other profiles, Struck or weatherstruck : Similar to flush except the upper edge is pressed back inside the face to create a sloping profile, This is time-consuming and requires practice, but the effect can be aesthetically pleasing. Rubbed: Also known as keyed or grooved, this is a rounded groove formed in the middle of the pointing using a suitable tool, V- pointing : Similar to rubbed but with a sharp inward V-groove rather than rounded. Tuckpointing: Using two colours of mortar (one similar to the colour of the masonry, used at the edges) to give the impression that the joints are very thin. Penny roll: A recessed line is created in the middle of the joint to give a tidier impression when the joints are wide or degraded. Strap or ribbon: A neat strip of mortar sits proud of the face of the masonry, This can be used to give a neater impression when joints are degraded.

Generally, mortar is structurally weaker than the blocks or bricks it bonds, creating a sacrificial layer that is more easily repaired than defects would be in the bricks or blocks themselves. As a result, mortar joints can decay over time, due to weathering, frost damage, and so on. When this happens, repointing is undertaken to renew them. For more information see: Repointing,

Basic brickwork replacement, Bed joint, Binding agent, Brick, Cement, Cracking and building movement, Grout, How to clean masonry, Hungry joints, Lime mortar, Mortar, Rendering, Repointing, Types of mortar,

What to use for pointing bricks?

What is a mortar and which mortar mix is best for brickwork? – Cement and sand mixed with water makes concrete. Cement and sand, with the addition of plasticizer or lime (all mixed with water)makes a building or pointing mortar. Sand is the major component of a mortar mix and will vary depending upon where it is sourced, which can be on land or sea-dredged.

Sands used for mortar mixes will be graded finer than those used for concrete mixes. Cement acts as a binder in the mix. Mortar Plasticizer is a chemical additive which improves the workability of mortars. Lime is frequently used as an alternative to chemical plasticizer, most notably on old buildings, where it will be ‘kinder to’ the brickwork than a cement-based mortar.

Sand, Cement, Lime and/or Plasticiser have to be mixed in proportions that will deliver a mortar appropriate to the structure and weather conditions it must support. A useful point of reference regarding Mortar Mix compositions, for a range of situations, is NHBC Appendix 6.1 (NHBC is the UK National House-Building Council).

• Appendices 6.1A and 6.1B plot Weather, Rain and Frost exposure levels for all regions of the UK.
• Appendix 6.1C correlates mortar compositions (relative amounts of sand, cement and lime where applicable) to the weather parameters detailed in 6.1A & 6.1B A typical mortar mix for Repointing purposes, for use in an area subject to normal weather conditions, would comprise 1 part Portland Cement, 1 part Lime and 5 ½ parts Sand.

If you need to match new and existing mortars, unless you hold details of the original mix, it is likely to be a process of trial and error, to achieve a satisfactory outcome. Cement dyes are available and may aid in achieving a colour match. Lime can be very beneficial in repointing mortars.

1. Lime mortars generally cure or set more slowly and in doing so, are less prone to shrinkage and cracking.
2. Lime mortar is also more permeable and will allow trapped moisture to escape the structure.
3. In cement-based mortars (without lime) additives may be used to accelerate or slow the setting process and in cold weather, to protect drying mortars from frost.

It is not uncommon to sieve a sand when preparing a mortar mix for pointing, both to remove impurities and to produce a consistency that can be processed through an applicator. If you require guidance on matters relating to Raking or Repointing, email [email protected] or call 01794 830 841.

If you have any comment to make on this article, we will be pleased to hear from you by email or phone. When does a wall need repointing? There are often clear signs the mortar joints are failing and the structure needs repointing. At other times, the first sign may be small cracks between the mortar and the brick face, in essence breaking the bond between the two elements.

Subjected to even moderate rainfall, such failures can lead to moisture seeping into the wall. A heavy frost will cause dampened mortar to expand and over time, crumbling of the mortar is inevitable. Damp walls are often the first sign that repairs are needed to the mortar.

Repointing may also be required if a wall develops a crack which extends to the masonry, in which case, strengthening of the wall may be needed, before renewing the mortar joints. What is the best way to remove the old mortar? Firstly, it could be removed by hand, with a hammer and chisel and this method might be entirely appropriate for small areas or sensitive structures.

More commonly, power tools are used to speed the process and achieve consistent results. These generally constitute a small format angle grinder, fitted with either a circular diamond blade or a tungsten mortar rake. In both instances, a method of ensuring a consistent depth of ‘raked out’ joint and the removal of dust and debris are pretty essential and angle grinder attachments are available with these combined functions.

Both the foregoing methods will apply to regular brick or stonework structures where straight joints are present. Irregular joints, such as those you will find on a random stone structures, can probably only be ‘raked out’ with a mortar rake. What is the best repointing mortar? Much will depend upon the what, where and how of the job.

If repointing small areas, it may be important to ensure colour matching, whilst repointing a complete wall should remove that constraint. Properties over 100 years old will almost certainly have been constructed using lime-based mortars and here it is advisable to use a lime product and not just for aesthetic reasons.

1. Experienced tradesmen will be adept at producing consistent batches of self-mixed pointing mortar but for the less skilled, pre-mixed pointing mortar requiring only the addition of water is a much safer bet.
2. And weather is an important consideration – whether it’s the alignment of your property or the part of the country you live in, the mortar needs to be formulated for the weather conditions it will be expected to endure.

What is the best way to put mortar into the joints? Before we consider the how, its best to reflect on why the work is being undertaken and what is expected of the finished joint. The new mortar will be required to strengthen the structure and provide a sealed face to the weather.

For that to be achieved, the joints must be of sufficient depth, be free of voids and be well compacted so as to bond with the existing structure. And the external face must be sealed, a process generally known as ‘ironing’. You can fill the joints with a small trowel, use a hand-operated ‘mastic’ gun or a powered device, most likely electric or air-driven.

What is the best way to finish the mortar joint? Mortar joints are usually finished (‘ironed’) with a few common shapes or ‘profiles’. Bucket Handle is a basic concave finish. Recessed Joints, as the name suggests, sit a short distance behind the face of the brickwork – this is primarily for decorative reasons but the joints still need to be ironed to ensure proper sealing.

• Weatherstruck is an angled profile which is very effective at shedding water, so appropriate for walls regularly subjected to driven rain or spray.
• There are a number of other specialist profiles which will most probably apply to older properties or be unique to a geographic location.
• Regardless of the profile chosen, the mortar must be sufficiently compressed to constitute a strong joint and provide an outer skin that can not easily be penetrated by moisture.

Should I seal the finished mortar joint? It can be appropriate to seal brickwork, usually if there is an inherent porosity that would otherwise only be addressed by replacement of the structure. In doing so, it is entirely acceptable to seal the mortar joint.

What is pointing mortar used for?

Features & Benefits –

Designed for exterior and interior use—ideal for both heavy duty use and for long lasting beautyColors are specially blended to be uniform in colorPart of a complete LATICRETE® system that includes materials for every aspect of a stone thin brick, manufactured stone or tile installation to ensure quality and long lasting performance

MVIS Pointing Mortar is for adhered stone, thin brick and manufactured masonry veneers. Factory prepared and designed to be mixed with water. Formulated from a blend of high strength portland cement, graded aggregates, and color-fast pigments. Provides a joint that is dense, hard and durable.

Product #: 04XX-0050-2 Packaging Sizes: 50 lb (22.7KG BAG) Bag Available in the following colors:

46 Quarry Red 24 Natural Grey 44 Bright White 45 Raven 66 Chestnut Brown 40 Latte 39 Mushroom 58 Terra Cotta

Available Colors: 8 Part of System: MVIS™ Country Availability

Warranties

DS 230.13 1 Year Product Warranty (US – English) DS 0247 25 Year MVIS System Warranty (US – English) DS 21040 15 Year MVIS System Warranty for Steel or Wood Framed Exterior Facades (US – English) DS 0247CN 25 Year MVIS System Warranty (Canada – Engish) DS 2104CN 15 Year MVIS System Warranty MVIS for Steel or Wood Framed Exterior Facades (Canada – English) DS 0247SP 25 años de garantía limitada del sistema – MVIS (Estados Unidos – Español) DS 2104SP 15 años de garantía del sistema Para fachadas exteriores con estructura de acero o madera – MVIS (Estados Unidos – Español) DS0247F Garantie limitée de 25 ans sur les systèmes MVIS (Canada – Francais) DS2104F Garantie de 15 ans sur les systèmes MVIS Pour façades extérieures à ossature en acier ou en bois (Canada – Francais)

What is a pointing trowel used for?

Noun – pointing – trowel ( plural pointing-trowels )

A fine trowel, (metal) tool used in construction to shape mortar neatly into the seams which joint bricks, stones etc. in masonry,

Which tool is used for pointing?

This article is about computer pointing devices. For the measuring tool used to copy sculptures, see Pointing machine, A pointing device is a human interface device that allows a user to input spatial (i.e., continuous and multi-dimensional ) data to a computer, CAD systems and graphical user interfaces (GUI) allow the user to control and provide data to the computer using physical gestures by moving a hand-held mouse or similar device across the surface of the physical desktop and activating switches on the mouse.

• Movements of the pointing device are echoed on the screen by movements of the pointer (or cursor ) and other visual changes.
• Common gestures are point and click and drag and drop,
• While the most common pointing device by far is the mouse, many more devices have been developed.
• However, the term mouse is commonly used as a metaphor for devices that move a computer cursor.

Fitts’s law can be used to predict the speed with which users can use a pointing device.

What are 2 pointing devices?

Mouse and joystick are the two common pointing devices.

Why do bricks need repointing?

Why should I have my walls repointed? – Aside from helping to hold up your house, mortar protects against water ingress and.helps prevent heat loss through the walls. After rain, water can freeze in the bricks and surrounding mortar, expanding and causing damage. This freeze-thaw weathering does not look good and ignoring damaged or substandard mortar could lead to a damp and cold house.

What sand do you use for pointing brickwork?

Soft Sand – Soft sand is more commonly featured in mortar than sharp sand. Soft sand, also known as bricklayers’ sand, is a gritty sand type consisting of small grains. Most soft sand products can be used to make any type of mortar.

What type of cement is used for pointing?

While QUIKRETE® Mortar Mix or Mason Mix is the product of choice for most applications, especially larger jobs, other QUIKRETE® products also give excellent repointing results.

How many types of pointing work are there in civil engineering work?

V-Pointing – There are two varieties of V-pointing: one constructed by projecting the pointing face’s V-shape outside the wall face and the other by pressing the V-inside, as shown in figure. : Different Methods of Pointing in Construction

What is point up in construction?

Repointing German masons repointing a wall in 1948. Repointing is the process of renewing the pointing, which is the external part of, in construction. Over time, weathering and decay cause voids in the joints between masonry units, usually in, allowing the undesirable entrance of water.

Is brick pointing necessary?

What is repointing and why does it demand care? – Repointing is the process of taking out and replacing the mortar (‘pointing’) from the face of a masonry joint. Done properly, this helps exclude the weather and retard deterioration of the wall. Regrettably, repointing is commonly undertaken unnecessarily or unsatisfactorily. SPAB Fellow Emily Hale repointing

When should brick pointing Be Done?

Repointing Rules – Whenever mortar has lost ¼ inch of its original depth, it’s time to get out the chisel and go to work. Thoroughly rake out and clean joints to a depth twice the width of the joint. Do not chip, cut or remove the brick’s fire-skin, which will accelerate decay.

1. Make sure the brick is stronger than the mortar.
2. In general, houses built before 1930 have softer brick, which makes them likely candidates for old-style lime mortars.
3. To know for sure, have an engineering lab analyze a brick for compressive strength.
4. Repoint only when temperatures remain between 40 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, even at night.

Cold makes mortar brittle, while heat dries it out and prevents hardening. Keep fresh lime mortar damp for at least 3 days so it can harden before it dries. Taping plastic sheets over repointed areas will slow evaporation. After the sheets are removed, hose the wall periodically during dry spells to speed hardening.

What is the procedure of pointing?

Pointing is carried out in the following steps : The mortar of the masonry joints to be covered by pointing is raked out at least to a depth of 20 mm. The dust from the masonry joints is removed by brushes. The surface is then washed with clean water and it is kept wet for a few hours.

Is pointing the same as mortar?

By: Ivy Yuan The construction term pointing refers to the finishing of mortar joints in masonry, be it stone or brick. Mortar often does not have as long a lifespan as the brick it holds together, and over the years must be periodically removed and replaced.

• Repointing is the process of removing deteriorated mortar from the joints of a masonry wall and replacing it with new mortar.
• If properly performed, repointing restores the visual and physical integrity of the masonry, and therefore the longevity of the building envelope and any required building envelope surveys,

Mortar joints in exposed masonry are susceptible to weathering, which leads to water infiltration. This water infiltration, along with wind and pollution, causes the mortar to erode, and allows increase water infiltration. Mortar can also crack due to uneven settlement in a building’s foundation.

1. As a structure settles into the ground over time, stress is transferred into the structure itself.
2. This stress causes mortar joints to crack and peel, which again leads to further moisture entering the deteriorated mortar joints.
3. When the temperature falls below freezing, water in the masonry or the joints will freeze and expand.

This phenomenon, commonly referred to as freeze/thaw cycles, will eventually cause the mortar and brick to spall. Cracking and deterioration can also occur if thermal expansion is not accounted for. This is more common in older buildings that were constructed without expansion joints. Telltale signs of mortar deterioration include mortar erosion exceeding ¼”, crumbling mortar, voids in the mortar, and hairline cracks in the mortar and bricks. These signs should not be ignored. To ensure there’s no further damage to the building, repointing should be performed as soon as possible.

1. The process of repointing starts with surface preparation.
2. The existing masonry joints are cut out to a uniform depth of approximately ¾”, or until sound mortar is reached.
3. The joints and surface are cleaned of debris, and thoroughly wetted.
4. Once the surface is prepared, new mortar is carefully placed in the joints using a small trowel.

the fresh mortar should be pressed firmly into the joints to form a strong bond with the existing interior mortar. The mortar joints should then be tooled to match the desired profile. There are several different types of pointing profiles that can be achieved. Flush pointing is when mortar is pressed hard in the raked joints, and finished off flush with the edge of masonry units. The edges are then neatly trimmed with a trowel and straight edge.

The flush joint helps bridge any height differences between adjacent bricks or stones, and prevents water and dirt from collecting in any low spots. Weathered pointing is a modification of flush pointing. The face of the pointing is kept inclined, with its upper edge pressed inside the face by about 10 mm.

Weathered pointing throws off rain water and is considered fairly durable; however, it’s fairly difficult to achieve. Concave pointing is formed by making the mortar flush with the face brick then struck with a brick jointer. The jointer keeps the mortar flush to the bed on the masonry units while slightly concaving the middle of the joint. Since it’s easy to achieve and offers a high level of weather protection, this joint is commonly used.

• Beaded pointing is used almost exclusively in historical restorations.
• This joint looks like a raised bead on top of a flush joint.
• Beaded joints can be much more noticeable, making the mortar joints part of the structure’s visual aesthetic.
• Recessed pointing, sometimes referred to as raked joints, is when the mortar joint is raked back a certain depth from the face of the brick.

The mortar is first made flush with the brick and then raked out to the desired depth. Recessed mortar joints were mainly an aesthetic choice to draw attention to the brick rather than the mortar. There’s a lower resistance to weathering since the bed of the masonry below the joint is exposed. While mortar repointing is necessary, it’s erroneous to assume that repointing alone will solve all building envelope deficiencies. Water entry can result from deficiencies in flashing, waterproofing, gutters, lintels, sills, sealant joints, etc. It’s important to determine the root causes of any observed deterioration, and the sources of water infiltration, prior to performing any repair work.

Without eliminating the source of the problem, mortar deterioration will continue, and repointing efforts will be a waste of time and money. In most cases, the project costs associated with external restoration of a building are relatively low in relation to the benefits, particularly, the increase in property value and subsequent resale factor.

Additionally, the reduction in risk, or potentially costly structural defects, outweigh any immediate costs. Recent Posts