How to install roof flashing against a wall with a corner – When there is a corner where the roof meets the wall you will need a corner flashing piece. A corner flashing piece can either be bought from the or it can be made using a regular step flashing piece. Here I will show you how you can make a corner flashing piece and install the roof flashing.
Lay the underlayment and the shingles fully up till the wall. The first step flashing or the corner flashing should rest on a shingle. Take a tin snip and cut from one corner of the step flashing along 45 degrees to the centerfold. Next, cut from the other corner on the same side of the step flashing and along 45 degrees to the centerfold, Next, cut along the centerfold and remove the piece you have cut and bend the corner flashing square, so as to fit around the corner in the wall.If you don’t want to take the trouble making a corner flashing piece you can buy a ready-made one from the store and cut it to the size that you want. Place the bent corner flashing firmly against the wall, Make sure that the corner piece extends at least 8 inches above the shingles. Make sure it sits flat against the roof and the wall. Nail the corner flashing on the top side using two nails, one on each side. Take a piece of step flashing and bend it in place so that it overlaps the corner flashing by at least three inches, Apply sealant to cover the overlapping area of the step flashing and keep it in place. Make sure that it is flat against both the roof and the wall. Hammer a nail into the top of this flashing. The nail should be high enough to let the next row of shingles cover it. The next piece of step flashing should be placed where the next course of shingles will start. Place this piece of flashing so that it overlaps the previous flashing by at least three inches. Apply sealant where the two flashings overlap and nail the new shingle in place. Repeat the process alternating between the shingles and pieces of flashings till you reach of the top of the roof, For flashing the top of the roof you will have to make a custom piece out of a regular flashing piece. Take a piece of flashing and cut along its centerfold till about halfway. Leaving one of the cut pieces straight, bend the other piece so that it fits snugly along the peak of the roof. Secure this corner flashing piece with some roofing cement and a nail at the base. This corner flashing will later be covered by a ridge shingle.
- 0.1 How do you flash a flat roof to a vertical wall?
- 1 Does flashing go over or under siding?
- 2 What is metal end wall flashing?
- 3 Do you need to leave a gap between roof and insulation?
- 4 How do you seal flashing around a roof?
Should there be a gap between roof and wall?
Is it supposed to be like that? There needs to be air circulation in unheated space to prevent condensation causing rot. It’s freezing up there That is good. It means your loft insulation is working. I’m more concerned about animals entering the house. I found fixing wire-mesh externally to any small gaps at the top of the walls keeps unwelcome types of animal out. You could instead apply this internally. Note the wire-mesh guard to prevent them getting to areas where they would be unwelcome. answered Jan 26, 2017 at 10:51 RedGrittyBrick RedGrittyBrick 23.9k 11 gold badges 45 silver badges 88 bronze badges 6
Thanks! Do you have any official reference for this so I can point it out to the constructor? Jan 26, 2017 at 11:46 If anywhere, I expect it will be in BS 5250 I believe that is where there is a requirement for a continuous 10mm gap at eaves. Jan 26, 2017 at 12:10 Is that supposed to say ” can’t enter the roof to nest”, rather than “can”? Jan 27, 2017 at 0:23 “The RSPB encourage builders to make provision so that critters can enter your roof to nest.” What the heck? No. I don’t want animals making a mess and dying in my home. This sounds like a health hazard. Jan 27, 2017 at 0:45 @jpmc26 I know right? What better way to promote the welfare of birds than by imposing them as an unhygienic nuisance on the unsuspecting buyers of residential properties. Jan 27, 2017 at 10:30
That area is supposed to be open for venting the roof. However it should be covered with a material made of aluminum or vinyl with a type of screen to allow air to enter but keep small animals and rodents out. To get an idea of what I am talking about GOOGLE “soffit and fascia”,and you will see typical installations.
- This roof area should be cold unless you are using some of this for living space.
- If the area under the roof is just for storage or nothing then you should have adequate insulation over the conditioned space below.
- Are you sure the contractor has finished the building of your home.
- I would check other houses near you to see if theirs is like yours or covered.
The contractor may have forgotten to finish the job. answered Jan 26, 2017 at 10:59 d.george d.george 12.2k 2 gold badges 14 silver badges 23 bronze badges 2
The builder of my house has been on the news lately for the many things their contractors seem to forget. Jan 26, 2017 at 11:45 @algiogia might be time to get a lawyer. Jan 26, 2017 at 15:03
Should flashing be visible on roof?
Roof Flashing Is Not Always Visible : – Our team notes that homeowners aren’t always going to be able to see the flashing on their roofs. While some areas are exposed and fairly obvious, like where shingle meets brick, others may be hidden behind siding or other roofing materials, It is always a good idea to hire professional. They can better identify if your roof flashing needs work.
How do you flash a flat roof to a vertical wall?
How does spray foam flash a vertical wall? – It’s simple. A spray foam installer sprays foam up a vertical wall like any other structure. With foam being fluid-applied, it’s easy to transition from a flat area to a vertical wall. No flashing metal, adhesives, sealants, screws, or plates are involved.
Does flashing go under or over shingles?
Base Flashing & Step Flashing – Base flashing and step flashing are used where a vertical wall of the house intersects the surface of the roof deck, The two main types of walls are:
- Front walls (also called headwalls ): Vertical walls behind a sloping roof deck
- Sidewalls: Vertical walls along the edge of a sloping roof deck
As wind blows and rain pours, imagine how water would be blown against the walls of a home. The water would run down the wall and right into the joint where it meets the roof deck below. Thanks to base flashing at the joint, water is stopped before it gets between the wall and the shingles and is directed into the gutters.
- Base flashing is the solution for front walls. Base flashing is one length of flashing that is bent (along the length) to match the pitch of the roof. Base flashing is installed over underlayment, but under siding and shingles, so you may not be able to see it from the ground.
- Step flashing should always be used where the roof deck meets a sidewall. Pieces of step flashing are bent at an angle relative to the roof pitch and installed along the full length of the sidewall where it joins the roof deck. The flashing should be partially exposed along the wall. Since you can see step flashing, some homeowners choose a more expensive flashing material like copper to achieve a certain aesthetic.
Step flashing is considered a much better alternative than continuous flashing since it does a better job of protecting against leaks. If a single piece of the step flashing has loosened roofing cement or fails, then rainwater simply hits the next piece of step flashing and doesn’t turn into a massive leak.
The next piece of flashing directs any water onto the next shingle and away from your home’s roof. Step flashing has been used on most one- and two-family homes with asphalt shingle roofs since the 1980s. L-shaped metal pieces that are a bit longer than the shingle overlap are installed over each shingle, adjacent to the sidewall.
Then the flashing is laced into each course to ensure that any water that makes its way under a shingle ends up on the flashing, then flows down on top of the next shingle. Step flashing helps ensure that water drains safely with the least amount of risk to your roof.
Does flashing go over or under siding?
How to Install Roof Flashing – Disclaimer : Roof flashing should always be installed by professional roofers, who understand best practices, safety requirements and the building codes and laws in their area. These instructions are only to help homeowners understand what to expect from their roofing professional.
Step flashing is the most time-consuming of all flashing jobs on the roof because you must complete it step-by-step as you shingle up the roof. There are a few general best practices you need to know. First, step flashing must be installed before the siding, so that the siding can cover the top of the flashing.
If this is a repair job, the siding must also be removed and replaced with the flashing. Second, step flashing needs to extend 8 to 14 inches above the shingles, according to the National Roofing Contractors Association (NRCA). Also, before you start installing your flashing, you need to look to see if the wall in question has a corner on the roof face, as in the image below. Corner-flashing Step roof flashing no wall corner
Where should flashing be installed in a masonry wall?
Success with stucco – For wood-framed structures, hang the drywall before the lath and scratch coat are applied. Otherwise, the weight of the drywall will stress the wood framing, causing early settlement cracks, which can be acute if the drywall is hung before the scratch coat has had a chance to cure ( DeKorne 2006 ). Figure 1. Average Annual Precipitation Map. The Compliance tab contains both program and code information. Code language is excerpted and summarized below. For exact code language, refer to the applicable code, which may require purchase from the publisher.
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- Please contact our webmaster if you find broken links.
- ENERGY STAR Certified Homes, Version 3/3.1 (Rev.09) Water Management System Builder Requirements 2.
- Water-Managed Wall Assembly.2.1 Flashing at bottom of exterior walls with weep holes included for masonry veneer and weep screed for stucco cladding systems, or equivalent drainage system.9 Footnote 9) These Items not required for existing structural masonry walls (e.g., in a home undergoing a gut rehabilitation).
Note this exemption does not extend to existing wall assemblies with masonry veneers. Please see the ENERGY STAR Certified Homes Implementation Timeline for the program version and revision currently applicable in in your state. DOE Zero Energy Ready Home (Revision 07) Exhibit 1 Mandatory Requirements.
- Exhibit 1, Item 1) Certified under the ENERGY STAR Qualified Homes Program or the ENERGY STAR Multifamily New Construction Program.2009 International Residential Code (IRC) Section R703.6.2.1 Weep screeds.
- A minimum 0.019-inch (No.26 galvanized sheet gage), corrosion-resistant weep screed or plastic weep screed, with a minimum vertical attachment flange of 31/2 inches must be provided at or below the foundation plate line on exterior stud walls per ASTM C 926.
It must be placed a minimum of 4 inches above the earth or 2 inches above paved areas and must allow trapped water to drain to the exterior. The weather-resistant barrier must lap the attachment flange, and the exterior lath must cover and end on the weep screed attachment flange.
Section R703.7.5 Flashing. Flashing must be located beneath the first course of masonry above finished ground level above the foundation wall or slab and at other points of support, including structural floors, shelf angles and lintels when masonry veneers are designed per Section R703.7. Section R703.7.6 Weepholes.
Weepholes must be provided in the outside wythe of masonry walls at maximum spacing of 33 inches on center and must be located directly above the flashing.2012 IRC Section R703.6.2.1 Weep screeds. A minimum 0.019-inch (No.26 galvanized sheet gage), corrosion-resistant weep screed or plastic weep screed, with a minimum vertical attachment flange of 31/2 inches must be provided at or below the foundation plate line on exterior stud walls per ASTM C 926.
It must be placed a minimum of 4 inches above the earth or 2 inches above paved areas and must allow trapped water to drain to the exterior. The weather-resistant barrier must lap the attachment flange, and the exterior lath must cover and end on the weep screed attachment flange. Section R703.7.5 Flashing.
Flashing must be located beneath the first course of masonry above finished ground level above the foundation wall or slab and at other points of support, including structural floors, shelf angles and lintels when masonry veneers are designed per Section R703.7.
- Section R703.7.6 Weepholes.
- Weepholes must be provided in the outside wythe of masonry walls at maximum spacing of 33 inches on center and must be located directly above the flashing.2015 and 2018 IRC Section R703.7.2.1 Weep screeds.
- A minimum 0.019-inch (No.26 galvanized sheet gage), corrosion-resistant weep screed or plastic weep screed, with a minimum vertical attachment flange of 3.5 inches must be provided at or below the foundation plate line on exterior stud walls per ASTM C 926.
It must be placed a minimum of 4 inches above the earth or 2 inches above paved areas and must allow trapped water to drain to the exterior. The weather-resistant barrier must lap the attachment flange, and the exterior lath must cover and end on the weep screed attachment flange.
Section R703.8.5 Flashing. Flashing must be located beneath the first course of masonry above the finished ground level above the foundation wall or slab and at other points of support, including structural floors, shelf angles, and lintels when masonry veneers are designed per Section R703.8. Section R703.8.6 Weepholes.
Weepholes must be provided in the outside wythe of masonry walls at maximum spacing of 33 inches on center, must be not less than 3/16 inch (5mm) in diameter, and must be located directly above the flashing. Retrofit: 2009, 2012, 2015, 2018, and 2021 IRC Section R102.7.1 Additions, alterations, or repairs.
Additions, alterations, renovations, or repairs shall conform to the provisions of this code, without requiring the unaltered portions of the existing building to comply with the requirements of this code, unless otherwise stated. (See code for additional requirements and exceptions.) Appendix J regulates the repair, renovation, alteration, and reconstruction of existing buildings and is intended to encourage their continued safe use.
Existing Homes SCOPE Retrofit existing exterior walls by adding base flashing to improve drainage, which mitigates water leaks and extends the life of the cladding.
- Remove cladding at the base of the wall and examine exposed building wrap, felt paper, or water control membrane, and sheathing beneath it.
- Repair torn or damaged building wrap as needed.
- If rotten sheathing is found, remove additional cladding as needed to diagnose and fix water damage, removing and replacing all rotten sheathing, installing new building wrap and flashing, and reinstalling cladding as needed
- Install base flashing as described in the Scope and Description tabs.
- If there is no separate water control membrane (fluid applied membrane, building paper, or felt) on the sheathing behind the cladding, tape or seal the top edge of the new flashing directly to the face of the existing sheathing with self-adhered membrane, sheathing tape, or sealant.
For more information on conditions that may be encountered when working with walls in existing homes, see the assessment guide on walls, windows, and doors. See the U.S. Department of Energy’s Standard Work Specifications for more on sealing walls to keep out moisture, air, and pests.
- Follow safe work practices as described in the Standard Work Specifications.
- DESCRIPTION Existing exterior walls may be retrofitted to add flashing at their base to improve water management, reduce staining, and extend the life of the cladding.
- As with new construction, the goal is to direct water that passes behind the cladding and reaches the house’s water control layer downward and out, away from the building.
(See Figure 3 in the Description tab for an illustration of the conceptual approach.) Retrofitting to add base flashing involves removing a portion of the cladding at the bottom of exterior walls. This tends to be easiest with lap or panel siding cladding types that can be removed and re-installed by unscrewing fasteners, and most difficult with brick and stucco claddings that require materials to be chipped out and replaced. Figure 1. Staining and the absence of flashing at the base of an exterior brick wall. (Source: Building Science Corporation,) For a successful base flashing retrofit, the extent of the removal of the existing cladding need only be whatever is sufficient to strip-in the new metal or rigid plastic flashing with the water control layer behind the cladding (see Scope ).
However, if upon removal of the cladding, rotten sheathing is discovered, additional removal is recommended to remove and replace all rotten sheathing and mitigate the cause of the damage. Brick claddings do not differ from other cladding systems in that the extent of the removal can be limited to only what is required to add the new flashing; however, this may be an excellent time to consider repointing the mortar at the base of the wall.
Look to the existing pattern of staining and damage for an indication of where to repoint. When the brick is replaced, weeps should also be added to the mortar joints. See Figure 7 in the Description Tab. How to Add Flashing to the Base of an Existing Wall
- Remove a portion of the cladding at the base of the wall and examine the condition of the exposed building wrap, felt paper, or water control membrane, as well as the sheathing beneath it.
- Repair torn or otherwise damaged building wrap as needed.
- Assess the condition of the sheathing. Damp sheathing will dry with improved drainage, but rotting sheathing should be removed and replaced. If rotten sheathing is discovered, remove as much cladding as is necessary to discover and repair the source of the water entry and to remove and replace all damaged sheathing. Install new flashing and weather-resistant barrier (fluid applied membrane, building paper, or felt) as needed.
- After the cladding has been temporarily removed at the base of the wall and if the sheathing is sound (or after damaged sheathing has been repaired), follow the guidance in the Scope and Description tabs to install new base flashing.
- If there is no separate water control membrane on the sheathing behind the cladding, tape or seal the top edge of the new flashing directly to the face of the existing sheathing with self-adhered membrane, sheathing tape, or sealant. Follow the substrate preparation instructions of the membrane, tape, or sealant manufacturer to ensure proper long-term adhesion.
COMPLIANCE See Compliance tab. Access to some references may require purchase from the publisher. While we continually update our database, links may have changed since posting. Please contact our webmaster if you find broken links. References and Resources* *For non-dated media, such as websites, the date listed is the date accessed.
Can you glue lead flashing?
Sticking Lead Flashing with Construction Adhesive Bonding lead flashing with traditional adhesives opens it up to damage and failure in the future. Lead flashing is the thin pieces of material that prevents water from accessing the joint. It’s used as part of the water-resistant barrier and requires a waterproof sealant to bond successfully.
- Existing adhesives are simply not up to the job.
- Thankfully, C-TEC has the ideal solution for bonding lead flashing and that is CT1, the ultimate construction adhesive, filler and sealant.
- Existing adhesives usually provide a quick fix solution to the problem.
- But these bonds never last and the job will must be re-visited.
This type of adhesive is usually two component based. Solvent adhesives require a perfectly dry surface in order to carry out the bond successfully. If there was any dampness present, the bond simply would not work. This is of course a major drawback since most of us live in temperamental and wet climates, which makes it difficult to carry out lead flashing bonding.
- In addition to this drawback, traditional construction adhesives were always very messy to work with and would get everywhere (including other areas of the roof and all over your clothes!) Such a messy product required additional leg work when it came to clean-up after bonding the lead.
- Another huge disadvantage of this type of adhesive is the fact that they are usually very slow to cure.
This lengthens the entire process and wastes more time and energy to complete the project. Two component adhesives cure rigid, which is not ideal when bonding lead because a flexible bond is usually necessary. Bonding Lead Flashing with CT1 Instead of wasting your time with poor-quality construction adhesives, use CT1, the ultimate industrial adhesive to bond lead flashing.
This revolutionary product creates strong and formidable bonds between a variety of materials. This includesstone, lead, flashing, wood, glass, tiles, mirror, wood and tiles. Unlike traditional adhesives, CT1 does not require dry surfaces to work properly. It’s waterproof feature means you can use it at any time of the day and during any weather imaginable.
It even works under water and for boating maintenance repairs. It has an elongation rate of 350% and provides an excellent, flexible bond between two materials. This makes it perfect for lead bonding because roofs are often subject to movement, whether that be from strong winds or other contributing factors.
What is metal end wall flashing?
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- End Wall Flashing
End-wall flashing is applied where the upward slope of a roof meets a wall. The wall side of the flashing can be covered with siding or counter-flashing, and outside closures are necessary to seal between the flashing and the panel. Specify which trim piece is needed and the roof pitch when ordering. FILL OUT OUR BID SHEET & GET STARTED METAL ROOFING & TRIM ROOFING TRIM GUIDE TO TRIM PRODUCTS METAL COLORS PRODUCT GUIDE PANEL PROFILES CONTACT US PANEL PROFILES METAL COLORS TRIM
Is flashing easy to bend?
Download Article Download Article Creating proper bends in roof flashing is essential to ensure that it fits properly and does its job of directing water away from siding. Luckily, bending flashing to create proper drainage really isn’t hard to do. The metal used for flashing is so thin that it’s super easy to bend by hand or with the help of some basic hand tools.
- 1 Use a 10 in (25 cm) by 7 in (18 cm) piece of thin metal for flashing. Copper, lead, and galvanized steel are the best types of metal for flashing. The exact thickness doesn’t matter, as long as you can bend it easily by hand.
- Step flashing are pieces of flashing bent in half at 90-degree angles for where the shingles of a roof meet a sloped wall, such as the wall of a chimney or the siding of a room that juts out of the roof. Step flashing is the main type of flashing you need to bend.
- Using pieces that are 10 in (25 cm) long allows you to have 5 in (13 cm) of metal on the wall and 5 in (13 cm) of metal on the roof when you install the bent step flashing. The 7 in (18 cm) length allows for a 2 in (5.1 cm) overlap between pieces of flashing.
- 2 Bend 1 piece of step flashing for every row of shingles along the wall. Count the number of rows of shingles that meet the wall you want to direct water away from. This is how many pieces of step flashing you need to create proper drainage away from the siding and off the shingles.
- For example, if there are 10 rows of shingles that meet the wall of a chimney, bend 10 pieces of step flashing to line that wall.
- 3 Find a flat surface with a 90-degree corner or edge. Look for something like a wall or a piece of plywood. Make sure the surface is stable and completely flat.
- For example, you could prop a sheet of plywood up against something and use the edge of the plywood to bend your step flashing.
- You could also use a large straight edge, such as a carpenter’s level or square, to bend the flashing around.
- 4 Line up the middle of the metal lengthwise along the corner or edge. Place the piece of flashing you want to bend flat against the surface. Slide half of it off the surface, so there are approximately 5 in (13 cm) of metal hanging off the corner or edge of the surface.
- Make sure the piece of metal is lined up perfectly straight before you bend it.
- Mark the middle line with a pencil and a straight edge if you aren’t sure you can eyeball it correctly.
- 5 Push the metal around the corner or edge to form a 90-degree bend. Press 1 palm firmly against the metal where it sits against the surface to hold it steady. Use your other hand to push the other side of the metal all the way around the corner until it’s bent at a 90-degree angle down the middle.
- This makes a sharp crease down the middle, which ensures a good fit and seal where you install the flashing.
- Don’t try to bend flashing freely by hand. This creates a rounded crease down the middle, which means there will be more space behind the flashing when it’s installed.
- 6 Install the flashing along the siding of a sloped wall where the shingles meet it. Work your way up from the bottom of the wall. Put a piece of step flashing under each shingle that meets the wall and overlap adjacent pieces of step flashing by 2 in (5.1 cm). Nail each piece of step flashing to the roof with 2 galvanized roofing nails and a hammer or nail gun.
- Always start with the piece of step flashing at the bottom of the slope so that subsequent pieces of flashing overlap the piece below. That way, water rolls down them without penetrating cracks and finding its way into the roof.
- 1 Clamp a piece of step flashing in the middle of 1 side with needle-nose pliers. Use a pair of needle-nose pliers that has jaws which are at least 5 in (13 cm) long. Slide the jaws horizontally over 1 side of the bent flashing, perpendicular to the bend and in the center of the flat surface, so the tips of the pliers reach the bend.
- Kickout flashing goes at the end of a row of step flashing that reaches the edge of the roof. It’s bent into a corner of sorts, so as to direct water away from the siding. You only need 1 piece of kickout flashing per row of step flashing.
- 2 Twist the pliers to 1 side to create a loose fold in the middle of the flashing. Grip the handle tightly to keep the metal tightly clamped between the jaws. Roll your wrist to the left or right to fold 1 side of the metal over the other and create a bend.
- Twist the pliers to the left if you want to bend the kickout flashing for a left-hand wall and vice versa if you want to bend the flashing for a right-hand wall.
- 3 Adjust the angle of the kickout flashing with pliers or a gloved hand. Overlap the metal more if you want a sharper angle. Unfold the metal slightly if your want less of an angle.
- The angle you use depends on where you want water to drain off the roof. You can adjust it to direct water towards a gutter, for example.
- Make sure not to fully crease the folds in the metal until you’re done adjusting the angle.
- 4 Press a wood block down on the fold to flatten the creases. Put the flat end of a block of wood directly on top of the folded metal. Push it down firmly until the metal is full flattened.
- Use a hammer or a mallet to hammer on the wood block if it’s easier.
- 5 Trim the end that goes against the wall into a round shape with metal snips. Start at the bottom corner and cut into the side of the metal that goes against the wall. Cut along to metal to the top corner, curving your cut slightly as you go, to make a rounded end.
- This is purely aesthetic, so feel free to skip this step if you want to.
- It doesn’t matter how curved or rounded you make the cut. It’s totally up to you, so just do whatever looks nice in your opinion.
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Buy pre-bent pieces of flashing if you want to save yourself the time of bending each piece yourself.
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Be careful not to slice your hands when you’re bending thin pieces of metal. Wear gloves if the edges are particularly sharp.
- 10 in (25 cm) by 7 in (18 cm) piece metal
- Galvanized roofing nails
- Hammer or nail gun
- Step flashing
- Needle-nose pliers
- Block of wood
- Hammer or mallet (optional)
- Gloves (optional)
- Metal snips
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Should there be a gap between ceiling and wall drywall?
Hanging Drywall Vertically: Leave a 1/8-in. Gap – There’s no reason to measure and cut drywall for an exact fit. It’ll usually just cause trouble. Jamming in a piece that’s too tight will crumble the edge or break out a corner (left). And removing a piece to shave a too-tight edge is messy and time consuming.
- A loose fit avoids this problem.
- Cut it to leave about a 1/8-in.
- Gap at edges (right).
- In fact, when you’re hanging the ceiling, keep in mind that 1/2 in.
- Along the perimeter will be covered by drywall on the walls.
- And the same is true of inside wall corners.
- So you can safely cut these pieces 1/4 in.
- Less than the actual measurement and leave a gap in the corner if necessary.
Even a piece whose edges aren’t covered should be cut a little short. It’s easier to fill a 1/8-in. gap with setting-type compound than to cut and repair a broken edge or corner,7 / 8 Family Handyman
Do you need to leave a gap between roof and insulation?
Insulating a sloping roof
- It’s worth insulating the sloping insides of a pitched roof in order to conserve heat if the space is to be used for anything except simple storage.
- It must be remembered that just because a roof space is insulated and the floor boarded, it does not mean that the room can be considered a ‘habitable’ room – for a full conversion of a roof space, building regulations must be met which includes suitable fixed access (not a loft ladder), lighting etc.
- Before fitting any insulation to the sides of a pitched roof space, any repairs to the roof should be completed – once the insulation is in place it will be harder to spot any leaks inside the roof and any leaks will soak the insulation itself.
It is important that air is allowed to circulate between the roof covering and the insulation to avoid condensation – a gap of at least 50mm (2 inch) must be left between the insulation and the inside of the roof covering. This gap must be ventilated at the top (i.e.
- Sheet insulation fitted between the rafters – the thicker the better but the size of rafter may limit the thickness possible once an allowance has been made for the required 50mm (2 inch) air gap.
- A sheet vapour barrier fitted to the inside of the rafters – not required if the insulated plasterboard incorporates a vapour barrier.
- Insulated plasterboard i.e. plasterboard with a layer of insulating foam attached to the rear side. Some insulated plasterboard also incorporates a vapour barrier.
To locate the sheet insulation between the rafters while ensuring the air gap behind, timber battens are first screwed to the sides of the rafters. Use battens which have been treated with preservative – the simplest way is to purchase tanalised roofing battens which are usually held as standard products by most timber merchants.
Do not use a hammer and nails to fix the battens, the vibrations through the roof may cause damage to the roof covering especially where the roof is old – either use screwdriver and screws or a nail gun. Once the battens are in place, cut the insulation board to be a tight fit between the rafters and push it into the gap.
If any pieces won’t stay in place, use a dab of sealant on the reverse to attach it to the battens – check first that the sealant is compatible with the insulation board. At the bottom of the rafters, the insulation board should extend down to the top of the ceiling of the room below.
What flashing is installed where a roof intersects a head wall?
Headwall or Apron Flashing – We install headwall flashing, also called apron flashing, where vertical walls intersect the roof. It prevents leaks by guiding water running down the wall onto the roof system. We place headwall flashing behind siding. If your house has a brick headwall, we install counter flashing to overlap the top of the headwall flashing.
- Deer Park Roofing prefabricates all headwall flashings from 26-gauge steel in our shop to ensure consistency and performance.
- We create 3 bends to add strength, then round corners to promote proper drainage.
- Again, we solder the seams for added durability.
- Then, we paint the metal flashing with an industrial coating.
We install valley flashing at angle changes in a roof system. There are many approved methods for valley installation. We find that the open no-cut valley method works the best. This method gets its name from the NRCA Roofing Manual: Steep-slope Roof Systems.
The first step in this method is to install an ice and water shield up the center of the valley. This is a self-adhering membrane that that adds an extra layer of protection to the roof. On top of this, we install the metal valley liner. Next, we line shingles along the valley to prevent water from draining into the shingle courses.
A shingle course is a row of shingles that directs water to the row beneath it. Every component of the roof, especially shingles, needs to point down to direct water to the gutters. Below are examples of valley flashings. We install gutter apron flashing along the gutter line, which is where the roof and gutter meet. At this intersection there is a gap that is formed from the fascia trim board and roof sheathing. This flashing has a drip edge, which is a lip on the metal that keeps water from draining onto other building components.
- This bend in the metal also strengthens it, making it less flimsy.
- When installed correctly, this type of flashing overlaps to stop voids from forming.
- It directs water into the gutters, protects the roof from weather, and prevents insects and animals from entering the attic.
- First, we secure the gutter apron flashing to the roof sheathing.
Then we install an ice and water shield on top of this. Next, a starter course of shingles is placed on top of the ice and water shield. After this, the shingle courses can be installed.
What type of flashing is used when a roof intersects a gable wall?
Step flashing is installed at a roof to wall intersection, such as the side of a dormer or gable wall. Step flashings should overlap a minimum of 2′ & installed with each row of shingles.
How do you seal flashing around a roof?
As long as the flashing has been installed properly, you can repair a leaking seam using simple roofing cement in most instances. Simply push the seam back down and secure it in place with screws if necessary, and then apply roofing cement around all the edges of the flashing for a watertight seal.