How To Remove Cement From Concrete Floor?

16.03.2023

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This is how you use HG tile cement grout and mortar remover to remove cement stains and mortar residues:

First clean the surface that requires treatment with clean water.
Dissolve half a litre of HG tile cement grout and mortar remover in 5 litres of water.
Then apply the solution liberally with a mop or floor cloth.
Scrub the stains with a scrubbing brush or stiff broom.
Leave to absorb for a few minutes and then scrub properly once more.

Meer items

Contents

0.1 How do you remove cement from concrete?
0.2 How do you remove mold from concrete floors?
- 0.2.1 How to remove paint from concrete floors?
0.3 What is the best cleaner to remove cement from concrete floors?

1 How to replace a concrete floor?
- - 1.0.1 How to break up concrete by hand?
  - 1.0.2 How do you repair concrete floors?
- 1.1 How to break up a concrete slab?

How do you remove cement from concrete?

Steps to Remove Small Amounts or Thin Cement: –

For mild problems such as small spots or a thin film of cement, white vinegar typically provides enough acidic power to loosen the bond between the cement and the tile.
Use a sponge or pad to apply enough vinegar to the area to cover it completely.
Allow the vinegar to set on the cement for at least an hour or two.
If the weather is warm and the vinegar is evaporating, reapply frequently to keep the area moist.
After the cement starts to loosen, scrub the area with either a brush, Scotch Brite pad or scouring pad.
It will take some elbow grease, but the vinegar will have loosened the cement enough that it can be scrubbed away.
If a small amount remains, reapply vinegar and allow it to set again.
Scrub again until all of the cement is removed.
Rinse the area with water.
Wash the area with soap and water.
Rinse the area again to ensure all of the acid is removed.

How do you remove mold from concrete floors?

1. Dry Out the Affected Area – Mold thrives on moisture, so you need to make sure the area is dry. If you don’t, the mold can spread its spores in the air. This will make it harder for you to clean, and it might cause an allergic reaction. Try to expose the area to direct sunlight to dry it out. If you can’t, use a fan or heater that’s made for the outdoors.

How to remove paint from concrete floors?

How to remove paint from concrete using chemical strippers: –

Apply a thick layer of paint stripper using a brush, broom, or squeegee, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Let the stripper sit until it fully penetrates and the paint begins to soften (anywhere from 4 to 24 hours). Remove the paint with a scraper or wire brush once it is visibly wrinkled or puckered. If any paint remains on the concrete, spread the stripper back over the area and allow it to work longer. Hose off or mop up any remaining residue. Clean the concrete with a degreaser.

What is the best cleaner to remove cement from concrete floors?

Steps to Remove Small Amounts or Thin Cement: –

For mild problems such as small spots or a thin film of cement, white vinegar typically provides enough acidic power to loosen the bond between the cement and the tile.
Use a sponge or pad to apply enough vinegar to the area to cover it completely.
Allow the vinegar to set on the cement for at least an hour or two.
If the weather is warm and the vinegar is evaporating, reapply frequently to keep the area moist.
After the cement starts to loosen, scrub the area with either a brush, Scotch Brite pad or scouring pad.
It will take some elbow grease, but the vinegar will have loosened the cement enough that it can be scrubbed away.
If a small amount remains, reapply vinegar and allow it to set again.
Scrub again until all of the cement is removed.
Rinse the area with water.
Wash the area with soap and water.
Rinse the area again to ensure all of the acid is removed.

How to replace a concrete floor?

Determine the cause (s) of damage
Evaluate the extent of damage
Evaluate the need to repair
Select the repair method and material
Prepare the existing concrete for repair
Apply the repair method

How to break up concrete by hand?

Use a saw to cut into the concrete,creating fractures to break with a hammer or pry bar.
Drill holes into the concrete to create weak spots that can be hammered into removable chunks.
Use a sledgehammer to work from the edges inward,breaking the concrete into chunks.

How do you repair concrete floors?

Download Article Download Article While concrete is a strong construction material, it can still crack. Temperature changes, heavy weights, and dropped objects can all damage your concrete floor by causing cracks and holes. Fortunately, patching damaged concrete is an easy task.

To prepare, chisel the sides of the hole to make it square, remove loose concrete from the hole, and scrub the hole with a wire brush and water.
Brush the concrete bonding agent before laying the mortar in the hole and leveling the surface with a trowel.
If the mortar is in direct sunlight, cover it with a cardboard box while you wait 24 hours for it to dry.

1 Put on goggles, gloves, and a dust mask to protect yourself. This job sends a lot of dust and concrete debris into the air. Prevent injuries by wearing goggles and a dust mask. Protect your hands with a thick pair of work gloves.
- For added comfort, wear knee pads. These will prevent pain and bruising when you kneel down on the concrete.
- If you don’t have knee pads, you can also lay a padded mat in your work area.
2 Chisel the sides of the crack or hole to make them square. The bonding material won’t stick as well to rounded edges. Take a chisel and hammer and tap any rounded edges to straighten them out.
- If you make a mistake and chisel off too much, don’t worry. You can patch those holes the same way you’re patching the main crack.
- Don’t chisel just for the sake of it. If the edges are already squared and straight, then skip this step.
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3 Sweep any large concrete chunks out of the hole. Large pieces of concrete and debris will prevent the bonding agent from making a good seal. Remove all large pieces with a broom and scoop them into a pail.
- Don’t worry if there is dust or smaller debris left behind. This step is only to remove large pieces that a vacuum can’t pick up.
4 Vacuum the area with a shop vac. Remove any dust and small debris from the crack to help the mortar bond better. Use a shop vac to clean the crack and surrounding area. Pass over the area several times and ensure you’ve picked up all the debris.
- If you don’t have a shop vac, don’t use a normal vacuum cleaner. Concrete shards could damage it. Instead, use a fine brush to sweep up dust and smaller debris as well as you can.
5 Scrub the damaged area with a wire brush and water. Dip the brush in water and scrub every part of the crack or hole. This gives the bonding material a greater surface area to adhere to. Make sure you get all the edges, sides, and the bottom of the damaged area.
- Generally, you don’t have to wait for the water to evaporate before applying the bonding agent. However, read the instructions on the product you use. If it tells you to apply the agent to dry concrete, then wait for the water to dry.

1 Brush a concrete bonding agent into the crack or hole. Bonding agent is a liquid that helps concrete stick better. Dip a paintbrush into the bottle and spread an even layer into the damaged area. Cover every part of the crack or hole. Then let the bonding agent dry for 1 hour.
- Bottles of bonding agent are available at hardware stores. Ask an employee for product recommendations if there are multiple to choose from.
- The product you use may give specific directions on the amount to use and drying time. Follow the instructions provided.
2 Mix the repair mortar in a bucket. Mortar is used to patch cracks in concrete. Look for specialized mortar designed for repairing concrete at the hardware store. Pour out the dry mortar into a bucket. Then add the instructed amount of water. Mix it with a trowel, electric mixer, or your hands until it reaches a thick, peanut butter-like consistency.
- If the mortar is too watery, it won’t bond well. Add more dry mortar to make it thicker if you have to.
- The amount you use depends on the size of the hole you have to fill. Most packages have directions on how much to use for different sizes.
- The recipe and mixing time may vary for different products. Always follow the instructions on the product you use.
- Always wear gloves, safety glasses, and a mask when mixing mortar.
3 Scoop the mortar into the crack or hole. Use a trowel or your hands and fill the space with mortar. Press it down so it fills all the small holes in the concrete. Keep adding mortar until it makes a small, rounded mound on over the concrete surface.
- Be sure to press the mortar against the edges of the damaged area as well. You need a strong bond throughout the entire crack.
4 Level the surface by scraping a trowel across the mortar lengthwise. Work in whichever direction the crack is longer. Press a long trowel down at the top and pull it towards you. Then go in the opposite direction. Scoop away any mortar that scrapes off when you do this.
- Repeat this motion if the mortar is still not level.
- If the hole is round, then don’t worry about working lengthwise. Just pull the trowel across the surface to even it out.
- Note that the mortar won’t be completely flush with the surface of the concrete yet. This step just levels out the top.
5 Make the mortar flush by scraping it horizontally onto the damaged edges. Use a smaller trowel or paint scraper and scrape along the edges of the crack or hole where the concrete meets the mortar. Push the mortar so it is even with the concrete surface. Work around the whole border of the crack.
- You might need to repeat this several times. Continue working around the mortar until it’s all even with the concrete.
6 Scrape the surface once more with the long trowel to even it out. This final pass removes any excess mortar above the surface and smooths it out. Use the same back and forth motion that you used before. Make multiple passes if the mortar doesn’t flatten out after your first pass.
7 Cover the mortar while it dries if it’s in direct sunlight. High heat causes the mortar to dry too quickly, making it weaker. Protect your repair by covering it if it’s in direct sunlight. Place a cardboard box or similar covering over the mortar while it dries.
- Don’t let anything you use to cover the mortar touch it directly. A sheet, for example, could get stuck on the mortar.
- If you’ve repaired an indoor floor, then this probably isn’t an issue unless a window focuses the sun right on the repair. Keep the window closed until the mortar dries.
8 Let the mortar dry for at least 24 hours before walking on it. Mark the area off so no one steps on the mortar by accident. Keep pets and children away as well. After 24 hours, the mortar should be dry enough to walk on normally.
- Check your product instructions to see if there is a different drying time.
- If this floor was in your garage, wait a week before driving over it with your car.

Add New Question

Question I’ve rented a flat and at the bottom of the back stairs, the bottom floor is sinking, what do I need for it? It sounds like the house may have some structural issues; this could be dangerous for you, so you should contact your landlord about it.
Question How can you repair the cement if it was damaged before it finished drying? If it’s still wet, you can smooth it out with a trowel. If it’s too hard for that, you can wet it down and trowel in some wet cement.
Question I have a cement floor in my garage, which is now full of potholes. How do I lay a new floor over the existing one? To lay a new floor, you will first need to fill out the existing potholes. Once they have dried, you can lay a new floor. This will ensure that the new floor has a smooth final finish. However, if the number/size of potholes and the level of damage is high, it is better to tear down the existing floor and then lay a new one.

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This repair works best if the cement temperature is above 50 °F (10 °C), so if the concrete is outside, wait until the weather warms up.

Always wear eye protection, a dust mask, and gloves when chipping, grinding, or placing concrete.

Goggles
Gloves
Dust mask
Broom
Shop vac
Wire brush
Hammer
Chisel
Water
Bucket
Mortar
Bonding agent
Long and short trowel
Paintbrush

Article Summary X You can repair a concrete floor by cleaning and straightening the damaged area, and then filling it with mortar. Start by taking a hammer and chisel and tapping any rounded edges around the crack or hole to make them straight, which will help the mortar stick better.

Then, sweep out and remove any large chunks of concrete and vacuum the area to remove dust and small debris.
Once the area is clean, mix together repair mortar and water in a bucket and use a trowel to scoop it into the crack or hole.
Use the trowel to scrape over the surface and level it out, making sure the mortar is flush with the damaged edges.

Allow the mortar to dry for at least 24 hours so it fully hardens. To learn how to use a concrete bonding agent to help the repair mortar stick better, keep reading! Did this summary help you? Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read 407,528 times.

How to break up a concrete slab?

Download Article Download Article You may need to break up a section of concrete to reach an underground utility in need of repair, or perhaps you’re ready to turn a paved area into a green space. Whether you need to remove a whole slab or a smaller section, with the right tools and some elbow grease, you’ll be able to break up the concrete and clear it out.

1 Call your utility companies. Always call your local utility companies to make sure there aren’t any underground utilities beneath the concrete. Hire a professional if there are. Digging above a utility line like gas or electric can be very dangerous.
2 Use safety equipment. Concrete removal creates hazardous dust and sharp fragments, so protect yourself and your coworkers with safety goggles, dust masks or respirators, steel toe or other heavy boots, thick gloves, and thick clothing that covers your arms and legs.
- If you’re going to be using power tools, especially a jackhammer, use ear protection.
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3 Cover the slab with plastic sheets to protect fragile items. Be careful when using plastic sheets, as they can sometimes create a slipping or tripping hazard. However, sheeting can be worthwhile if you’re breaking up concrete near fragile items or structures.
- If you’re breaking up concrete in a wide open area away from structures and other breakables, it’s unlikely you’ll need sheeting.
- Fragments of concrete can be launched great distances by the force of your hammer and tools. When in doubt, use a cover to protect the surrounding area.
- If you don’t use plastic sheeting, protect any nearby windows and breakable objects with plywood sheets to protect the glass from concrete fragments.
4 Obtain a large pry bar. Whether you’re using a sledgehammer or jackhammer, you’ll likely need to pry apart the pieces of concrete as you break them apart. Concrete removal generally goes quickest if you have one person breaking apart the concrete and another following along and prying the pieces apart.
5 Use a sledgehammer for thin slabs. If your concrete is 4 in (10 cm) thick or less, try using a sledgehammer. Start at any existing cracks or at a corner or edge, and keep in mind that thick concrete will be easiest to break closer to its outer edges.
- Don’t try to swing the sledgehammer or lift it above your head; hold it at shoulder-height and let it fall onto the concrete, instead.
- Use the pry bar to pull apart the chunks of concrete after you break them apart. Then, move them out of the way to eliminate trip hazards.
- If after 10 minutes you’ve failed to make significant cracks or you are exhausted, you may want to try a demolition hammer.
6 Dig underneath slabs that are difficult to break. “Undermining,” or removing soil beneath the slab, will make the cement break more easily. Use a shovel to clear out the soil beneath the lip of the concrete, then strike it with your hammer.
- The more you undermine a slab, the easier it’ll be to break. However, even undermining a little can significantly decrease the difficulty of breaking concrete.
- After you’ve begun to undermine, use a garden hose to loosen the dirt and wash it out from underneath the slab.
7 Use an electric demolition tool. A 60-pound (27.2-kg) breaker should be sufficient for most home jobs. Only rent a heavy duty pneumatic jackhammer for extremely thick or difficult to break concrete.
- Only use a chisel point bit to break up concrete. This concentrates force, allowing the tool to break up the concrete more efficiently.
- Let the weight of the machine do the job; it’s not necessary to add force by pushing down. Forcing the bit may damage the tool or possibly wedge the bit.
- If the concrete doesn’t crack immediately, stop hammering and move over a few inches. More hammering could get the drill bit stuck.
- Break pieces 2-3 inches (5-8 cm) away from each other to minimize chances of a stuck drill bit.
- Use the pry bar to pull apart chunks of concrete after you crack them apart.
8 Deal with any mesh or reinforcing bars you encounter. You may encounter supports inside the concrete after you start cutting. Deal with them as you separate the chunks of concrete:
- If the concrete is held together by wire mesh or heavy, welded wire fabric, you’ll need bolt cutters to snip it apart. Number 10 wire can be cut with side cutting pliers.
- Metal reinforcing bars will take much longer to cut apart. Use a reciprocating saw or an angle grinder with a cutoff blade.
9 Pull apart jammed together chunks with a mattock. If chunks of concrete remain locked together, making it hard to break the surrounding area, clear the surrounding rubble. After that, you’re ready to use a heavy mattock to pry locked chunks apart:
- Swing the pointed end into the crack between the two chunks and pry.
- Once the crack is wide enough, switch to the larger flat end and pry it fully apart.
- Pry up the opposite side of each chunk if they still won’t budge.

1 Determine where you need to break the concrete. If you are looking for a broken water or drain line and you can figure out its general location, you’ll save a lot of effort and expense. Here are some things to look for:
- For plumbing problems, try to determine the location and depth of the underground pipes. Look for an outdoor faucet, sewer cap, or use a line locator.
- For water problems, look for areas where water is either bubbling up through cracks in the concrete or seeping out around the edges of the slab.
- For electrical lines, you may find you have to locate the conduit outside the slab area and dig up a length of it to determine where it runs.
- For other types of repairs, look up the construction blueprints with your municipal government or request them from the contractor who built your home.
2 Mark the location of the portion of the slab you intend to remove. You may wish to measure distances from the slab’s edge to make an even, parallel hole for less visible repairs. Use a pencil or chalk to mark off the location.
- Since you don’t know what is under the concrete, allow for plenty of room around your repair area to avoid causing further damage.
3 Shut off all relevant utilities. If you are digging toward a specific line or pipe, shut off the power or water before you begin. You don’t want to risk electrocution, flooding, or a gas leak.
- Always call the utility company to find out the location of power lines and other dangerous items before beginning projects that involve digging.
4 Saw the line as deeply as possible. Rent a concrete cutoff or demolition saw. Cut the line evenly to create a clean edge when your work is complete. If you are searching for a broken water pipe, you may have to enlarge the hole after the initial break is done.
- Be very cautious while sawing. These saws are powerful and can cause serious injury, property damage, or death if used incorrectly.
- Always wear a respirator or face mask to protect your lungs from cement dust and always follow the tool’s user instructions carefully.
- Whenever possible, use a wet saw and a steady flow of water to prevent airborne dust and damage to the saw blade.
5 Chip the concrete near the cut. Use a heavy duty hammer drill or a breaking chisel attachment in a rotary hammer to chip the concrete next to the line you sawed. Tilt the chisel so the side you will be removing cracks loose, not the side you’re keeping.
6 Gradually deepen the hole. Using the same tool, work the area around the cut, penetrating deeper each time until you’ve reached the bottom of the slab. This is the hardest part of the job, since the pieces you break off cannot come free until there is a space for them to drop into.
- You may need to leave tightly wedged pieces of concrete until the adjacent concrete is broken and removed.
7 Chip inward to make the gap wider. Once a gap has been created between the concrete you’re removing and the concrete that’s staying, chip further with the same tool. Widen it to at least 3 inches (8 cm), or enough to fully remove the broken pieces.
- Keep your chisel point slanted toward the beginning hole while you work around the perimeter of the hole, so it doesn’t try to penetrate straight down.
- If the chisel goes too deep, the bit will become lodged in its hole and will be difficult to remove.
- If a bit is truly stuck, you may need to use a new drill bit to break the concrete around it and free it.
8 Break larger pieces using a sledgehammer or electric jackhammer. Once there is a wide enough gap to avoid damaging the concrete you wish to keep, you can use the techniques described in the section on removing a whole slab.
- Use a pry bar as you go for the quickest and most effective results.
- Do not use a jackhammer or similar power tool if you are near a water pipe, electrical line, or gas line.
- Remove the broken chunks of concrete from the hole as it becomes larger so you can work more comfortably and spot pipes or electrical wires more easily.
- Use bolt cutters to snip reinforcing mesh and an angle grinder to cut through reinforcing bars.
9 Clean up the walls of the hole. Once all the concrete is removed, chip the vertical walls of the hole to make them smooth and even. This will ensure a stronger repair (or a more attractive edge if you don’t plan on replacing the concrete).
10 Search for the damaged pipe (if applicable). If you’re trying to find a damage utility such as a water pipe, look for signs as you go, such as water puddles or stains. Once you find the pipe, you may need to continue breaking concrete along its length until you find the damaged section.
- As you approach the depth and location of the damaged line or pipe, slow down and swing your hammer more precisely to prevent further damage.
- To protect pipes and lines, refrain from hitting your hammer on the concrete directly above their suspected location underground.
- Avoid hitting cast iron or PVC pipes with the breaking hammer, as these are especially brittle and can easily become damaged.

1 Use the rubble as fill. If you have a large hole in your yard, use some of the rubble to fill it back again. Cover any pipes or other objects with soil first to avoid damaging them with backfilled concrete.
2 Use a heavy-duty wheelbarrow or hand truck. Move the rubble to a larger disposal container using a heavy-duty wheelbarrow. Concrete is very heavy and can break light wheelbarrows. As an alternative, you can use a hand truck. You’ll only need to move the pieces a few inches, rather than lifting them into the wheelbarrow.
- Do not overload the wheelbarrow, or it could fall over and create additional work. Taking more trips with smaller loads will prevent you from overdoing it.
- Consider renting a power wheelbarrow.
3 Rent a dumpster from a disposal company. If you want to get rid of a large amount of concrete, this is your best bet. Many disposal companies have a reduced rate for disposing clean broken concrete.
- Ask in advance how full you can load it, or you’ll be forced to remove the excess concrete or pay them to do so.
4 Contact landfills about the cost of disposal. In some locations, only landfills that accept “C&D” (Construction and Demolition) materials will accept concrete. The fees for landfills like this can be pricey, so it’s best to check beforehand.
5 Drive the cement to the landfill. Be careful – your truck will not carry as much concrete as you think. Use a powerful pickup truck and do not fill the entire bed. Half full will likely be fine for full-sized trucks, though a quarter full would likely be best for smaller ones.
- You can also use a utility trailer for your truck, but be especially cautious in that case. An overly heavy trailer could smash into your truck or spill.
- Building supply companies may take your old concrete for free if you call them in advance and agree to deliver it yourself.
6 Upcycle broken concrete in another home project. Broken concrete can be used to make a raised planting bed, You can also use pieces of concrete similar to pavers to create a footpath or stepping stones, Chunks with an interesting shape can be painted and used to make garden ornaments, too.
- You could also arrange the pieces into a circle to create a backyard fire pit.