How to Shingle a Roof With Architectural Shingles Architectural shingles add texture and a three-dimensional appearance to a roof. Their benefits, however, are not just aesthetic. They also prevent water seepage better than regular shingles and come with a 40-year warranty.

Measure your roof to determine the number of shingle bundles and felt rolls, also known as underlayment, needed to cover the roof. Roofers break roofs into squares when measuring for shingles. A square is a 10-foot by 10-foot area, and three bundles of shingles are needed to cover a square. Remove any existing shingles, underlayment and flashing by scraping with a shovel or shingle ripper. Hammer any nails into the decking. Cleaning the roof is unnecessary if you are working with new construction. Lay the edge of a roll of felt on the decking along the roof’s lower edge. Roll the felt horizontally across the roof, and cut it with the utility knife at any obstruction, such as at a gable, dormer or valley. Continue laying the felt on the other side of the obstruction. Overlap slightly each successive row of felt until the roof is covered. Cut strips of metal flashing with the tin snips, bend them in half to crease them, unbend and place them around vents and chimneys. Nail the bottom edge of the flashing to the roof with roofing nails. Line all valleys with flashing and nail the flashing into place with a line of roofing nails 1/2 inch from the flashing’s edge. Begin a starter course by cutting off the tabs about two inches from the top of the shingle. Nail this piece into place at the roof edge so that it extends approximately two inches over the edge. Continue the starter course around the roof’s perimeter. Apply the first real course of architectural shingles so that the tabs reach the lower edge of the starter course. Attach each shingle with three nails, one in the center and one each on each side, four inches from the center. Continue around and up the roof, lapping each subsequent course over the prior one. Apply roofing tar liberally around any vents, pipes and chimneys. Place ridge vents along the entire roof ridge, or peak, and nail them in place with roofing nails.

: How to Shingle a Roof With Architectural Shingles

Are architectural shingles harder to install?

The Bottom Line – All in all, each type of asphalt shingle has its pros and cons. For instance, architectural shingles are very durable, yet they are harder to install and require a hefty investment. And while 3-tab shingles are cheaper, they have a shorter lifespan and require more maintenance,

1. In the end, it all boils down to your personal preferences.
2. However, no matter which type of shingle you want to go for, you need to hire a reliable roofing contractor like Prime Roofing.
3. We specialize in a variety of roofing materials, such as shingles and metal,
4. As a result, we are able to handle any roofing project, regardless of its scale and scope.

So if you want to give your roof a makeover or simply have it checked, don’t waste any time and give us a call at (904) 530-1446, Company Name: Prime Roofing Address: 3500 Beachwood Ct #207, Jacksonville, FL 32224 Phone: (904) 530-1446

Where do you nail shingles architectural?

Driving Roofing Nails for Shingles – Roofing nails should be driven by hand with a hammer or with a properly adjusted pneumatic nail gun. Nail guns that are improperly adjusted can result in either under penetration or over-penetration of the roofing nails, which then affects the shingle’s performance. It can also cause:

Nail corrosionSealing failuresRaised shingle tabsBuckling, and Shingle blow-offs.

Roofing nails are typically placed no closer than 1 inch from the edge of the shingle according to the manufacturer’s specifications.

Do you need a starter row with architectural shingles?

Do You Need a Starter Course with Architectural Shingles? – You do need to use a starter course with architectural shingles. The starter edge will help seal the edges and cover your shingle joints. As it won’t be visible on the finished roof, you don’t need to worry about the look of your starter strip and whether it matches your architectural shingles. Using the correct starter will ensure your shingles perform as you expect them to, so be sure to look at the application instructions on your shingles to find out which starter strip they need.

How many years do architectural shingles last?

Lifespan – Because of their durability and high-quality composition, architectural shingles generally have a longer lifespan than the 3-tab variety. They stand up better to weather conditions such as heat, snow, ice, rain, and strong winds. Their average lifespan is about 18 to 20 years.

What is the best underlayment for architectural shingles?

3. Synthetic Underlayment – This is currently the most popular choice for roof underlayment, and with good reason. Made with an asphalt-saturated basemat and fortified with a mix of fiberglass, this product is not only extremely water-resistant, much stronger and more resistant to tears than other types of underlayment.

What is the stagger for architectural shingles?

The Science Behind Your Inspection – by Tom Feiza, Mr. Fix-It, Inc. HowToOperateYourHome.com Do asphalt roof shingles really stagger? In my part of the country, they do. Stagger is a term some roofing contractors use for the shingle offset—that is, the spacing between butt joints of adjacent shingles.

Some contractors call it “shingle offset” or “edge-to-edge spacing.” I like to call it stagger like the local boys do. No matter what you call it, maintaining shingle stagger is really important to prevent roof leaks and to conform with manufacturers’ instructions. See Figure 1: Shingle Spacing – Typical and Figure 2: Shingle Spacing, Starter, Deck as these are graphic representations of this technique.

If the shingle stagger is too small—less than 4 inches—water can travel into the shingle butt edge to the butt edge joint of the shingle below (less than 4 inches away) and leak in. You know what leaks cause: rot, mold and lawsuits. Do you check the shingle stagger when you inspect roofs? How do you check it on modern laminated shingles? Checking the old three-tab shingles was easy, but things have changed. Figure 1: Shingle Spacing – Typical Figure 2: Shingle Spacing, Starter, Deck Why do I miss the three-tabs? Because they were easy to inspect. The tabs were about 12 inches wide and separated by a slot. When installing a roof, the contractor just cut about 6 inches off the edge of the starter of each row of shingles, creating a simple stagger. Photo 1: Three-Tab Shingles Photo 2: Laminated Shingles In fact, unless there was a really unusual pattern of tabs or slots, I never checked the stagger with three-tab shingles, because it was always right. Maybe the contractors or DIYs got it right because the three-tab shingles were easy to install, or maybe because mistakes with stagger were easy to see.

The slots just didn’t look right if the spacing was offand the DIY’s wife could see it from the ground. The new laminated shingles ( Figure 3: Laminated Shingle Nailing, and Photo 2: Laminated Shingles ) have no tabs and no slots. When the shingles are properly installed, it is very difficult to locate the shingle butt edge.

In fact, some shingles seem to have laminations that even cover the butt joint. Improper offset or stagger will allow leaking and will be very hard to detect visually. You should really step back and look at your pricing before you ever hire a new inspector.

1. Why do we say that? Well, imagine that you are charging $300 per inspection (way too low by the way).
2. But if you do 500 inspections a year, your gross revenue is $150,000.
3. So instead of hiring another home inspector at that point, why not raise your prices? Let’s say you raised your prices slowly up to $400 per inspection.

Even if you lost 100 inspections a year because of your price increase, you would make $10,000 more a year and work less. That would also set you up to make more when you hire a new inspector. However you cut it, be sure that you have enough inspections AND revenue to make it profitable to hire another inspector. Figure 3: Laminated Shingle Nailing Figure 4: Shingle Layout and Spacing Problems Stagger Is Important If the stagger (offset) is not adequate, rain can move through the edge of the shingle to the edge of the lower shingle, creating a leak. This is especially problematic in wet climates, areas with heavy rain or areas with freeze-thaw cycles, and with lower slope roofs.

1. The old “English” measurement three-tab shingles were about 36 inches wide, and the stagger was about six inches.
2. The “metric” shingles are about 40 inches wide, and the stagger is still about six inches.
3. If you mess up the stagger, the shingle tabs/slots will not look properly aligned, ( Figure 4: Shingle Layout and Spacing Problems ) and this is very easy to spot during a visual inspection.

With laminated shingles, the stagger ranges from six to 15 inches, depending on the type of shingle and the shingle manufacturer’s instructions. In a few cases, manufacturers may allow four inches, but that is not common. With laminated shingles, the appearance might change if the stagger does not follow the manufacturer’s directions, but this is often hard to see during inspection.

Check Offset and Pitch Shingle offset (stagger) of less than four inches makes the roof prone to leaking. On architectural shingles I am always looking for shingle edges and visually measuring the edge-to-edge spacing. In my work as an engineer and roofing consultant, I have seen roofs with stagger of less than four inches, and they leak—random leaks right through the roof.

The pitch of the roof also affects roof leaks when there is a small stagger. The lower the pitch of the roof, the more it is prone to leaks. Remember that asphalt shingles shed water and do not constitute a membrane. Ice on the roof also limits the roof’s ability to shed water and can compound the leak and stagger problem. ( story continues) I provided consulting on a huge laminated shingle roof over an indoor pool attached to a 3,500-square-foot home; this amounted to about 7,000 square feet of roof on which the stagger was as little as two inches, and the roof leaked in random locations.

Due to leaking, this voided the warranty. The whole roof needed a replacement because the shingles were not properly installed, and also the attorneys made some money. Inspecting Laminated Shingles To inspect laminated shingles for stagger, locate the edges of shingles in adjacent rows. Often this is difficult, but with a little practice you will notice subtle changes in appearance at the edge.

At times I slightly lift an edge to be sure it is an edge and not just a lamination over a base felt. Remember that butt edges are a straight cut, perpendicular to the lower edge of the shingle. Edges of laminations are often cut at an angle. Measure from edge to edge of adjacent shingles. Photo 3: Stagger 1.5 Inches Photo 4: California Valley If the stagger is off, you may also notice an irregular pattern in appearance. At times this is visible from the ground when viewing a larger area. Always Be Suspicious of “California” Valleys A “California” or “Long Island” valley is one in which a vertical shingle is used to line the edge of the valley.

( Photo 4: California Valley ). It could be an open metal valley or a closed cut valley. You will notice a shingle laid parallel to the valley and then rows of shingles laid over the vertical shingle to the rake edge. You will see the laminated edges of the vertical shingle in the valley. I anticipate installation problems with this California valley because the rows of horizontal shingles are often just started in the valley and the stagger is too small.

The roofing contractor is saving time and material by not trimming the shingle edge for proper stagger. It looks good, but it can leak. The Role of Manufacturers Can the manufacturer help? I have found that manufacturers and their local representatives are useful resources for technical information.

But when it comes right down to evaluating a shingle installation issue, they are often reluctant to criticize their customer, the roofing contractor. And that makes good business sense. They also may waffle a little with their statements. They guarantee their shingles for performance, but if leaks occur because of improper installation, this voids the warranty.

Most manufacturers’ instructions for installing asphalt shingles don’t mention the California valley, but I have seen references to this type of installation in trade journals and instructions. What’s a Home Inspector to Do? Always check for stagger with laminated shingles.

• Watch for those California valleys; at least the stagger is easy to see at the edge of the valley.
• Unfortunately, is it difficult to visually identify a stagger issue unless you are on the roof looking down at the shingles.
• If the stagger is five inches or less, start to look closely, documenting the condition and warning the buyer.

If the stagger is four inches or less, document the condition, suggest that there is a potential for leakage, and refer the condition to a professional roofing contractor for further evaluation. Carefully check the attic and ceilings for leaks. I suggest that the buyer ask the homeowner to document in writing the type of shingles, the name of the roofer and the installation requirements and warranties.

Have the buyer make the seller responsible for the roofing issues. You are not paid to be responsible for improper roof installation. Don’t accept that responsibility. Do a little research. Gather and review a set of shingle manufacturers’ installation instructions for shingles commonly used in your area.

You can find these instructions on the manufacturers’ websites. The Asphalt Roofing Manufacturers Association ( www.asphaltroofing.org ) also provides excellent reference materials. Carry the instructions with you to use as a reference. I provide the manufacturers’ instructions to customers when there is an issue.

Installation instructions are also printed on every bundle of shingles. You can often find a spare bundle of shingles in the garage to identify the manufacturer and type of shingle. Also, review these instructions in detail to see what they say about stagger. They may call it “offset,” but checking the shingle stagger is much more fun! Be knowledgeable about shingle stagger, because some contractors and some DIYs aren’t.

About the Author Tom Feiza has been a professional home inspector since 1992 and has a degree in engineering. Through HowToOperateYourHome.com, he provides high-quality marketing materials, books for homeowners, and illustrations that help professional home inspectors educate their customers.

E-mail Tom ([email protected]) with questions and comments, or phone (262) 303-4884. Copyright © 2021 by Tom Feiza, Mr. Fix-It, Inc, Reproduced with permission. OREP/WRE Coronavirus Discussion and Resource Page Coronavirus: National Home Inspector Survey Free Risk Management Online Course Claims and Complaints: How to Stay Out of Trouble Available Now Presenter: David Brauner, Senior Insurance Broker OREP David Brauner, Senior Broker at OREP, shares insights and advice gained over 25+ years of providing E&O insurance for inspectors, showing you how to protect yourself and your business.

Watch Now! Note: The Winter/Spring 2021 issue of Working RE Home Inspector is mailing now to over 25,000 home inspectors nationwide. OREP Insureds enjoy guaranteed delivery of each print magazine and many more benefits.

Is there a pattern to architectural shingles?

What is an Architectural Shingle? – These singles have evolved into different shapes, designs, colors, and even size over the years. The term dimensional is a category and architectural shingles actually fall into that category. They are, simply put, a fancier version of dimensional shingles.

Most people wouldn’t be able to tell the difference of the two types side by side. Basic dimensional shingles are more uniform and have a pattern that repeats more often. Architectural shingles as a shingle roof replacement, on the other hand, have more of a random pattern and shape along with a custom installation, which makes them more expensive.

The best way to examine which is right for your home is to take a look at the two side by side. If you don’t care one way or the other or you can’t tell the difference, then you can go with the price that suits your budget. Either type will give your home superior durability, a new look of depth, and a long-lasting protection against the Michigan weather elements.

• If you are ready to make a choice, contact Victors Roofing for help.
• We would love to help you make an educated decision about the best shingles for your home.
• We can give you a free estimate with no obligations and help you get the best performance and longevity possible from your shingle roof replacement.

We pay attention to the entire roof system so you don’t have to worry about a shingle roof replacement around gutters that might not operate well. We’ll inspect it all and let you know what really needs to be done to protect your home from the top down! Simply contact Victors Roofing with all of your questions and concerns.

Is it better to nail or staple shingles?

Mastering Roof Inspections: Asphalt Composition Shingles, Part 25 by Kenton Shepard and Nick Gromicko, CMI® The purpose of the series “Mastering Roof Inspections” is to teach home inspectors, as well as insurance and roofing professionals, how to recognize proper and improper conditions while inspecting steep-slope, residential roofs.

FASTENERS, Part 1 One of the key components in the wind resistance of shingles is the fasteners that hold them to the roof.How effectively fasteners hold shingles in place depends on four things:

the type of fastener;proper fastener installation;fastener placement; andthe holding power of the substrate.

Disclaim Proper Fastening You should disclaim proper fastening of asphalt shingles in your report and in your inspection agreement. Confirming proper fastening would require breaking the bonds of all the adhesive strips to examine all the fasteners, and you will not do that.

• For asphalt shingles, the adhesive strip is the most important component in resisting wind damage.
• Your disclaimer should state that you don’t inspect each fastener, and tell why.
• If you do break the bonds of a few adhesive strips to check a representative number of areas, your report should state that you inspected a representative number of fasteners only.

If you don’t inspect fasteners and fail to mention this in your report, you may be found liable in court for roof failure related to proper fastening. Disclaim confirmation of proper fastening. Jurisdictional Requirements Another reason not to confirm proper fastener installation is that you’d need to be sure of the jurisdiction in which the property you’re inspecting is located, and you’d need to be sure of the jurisdictional requirements.

If you’re wrong about either one, you could find yourself being sued for a new roof. Fastener Type The type of fastener used to fasten the shingles is especially important in resisting wind uplift and pull-through. Fasteners for asphalt shingles should be roofing nails or staples. The head of a roofing nail or the crown of a staple is what actually holds a shingle in place.

Although both nails and staples have been used in the past, staples are often not recommended in areas subject to high winds, and they are not allowed in new construction by the IRC. Shingles fastened with staples are often not warranted against wind blow-off. To hold properly, staples need to be installed with the crowns aligned with the long axis of the shingle. As an installer uses an air-powered staple gun, his natural tendency is to rotate his body. Unless he also rotates his wrist at the same time, the orientation of the staple crowns will reflect this rotation. This roof has staples that were poorly installed, and the shingles were poorly bonded, so their wind resistance was low. The minimum staple crown width is 15/16-inch. Properly installed, stapled shingles will usually withstand wind speeds of up to 60 miles per hour.

Upgrading the fastening system requires re-fastening the shingles with roofing nails. The shingles may need to be hand-sealed afterward, since the adhesive bond may not re-seal adequately. If you see staples used to fasten asphalt shingles on a home that is in an area that can experience high winds, you should mention in your report that staples are not the preferred method of fastening.

If they are not allowed in new construction in the area where the home was built, mention that fact, too. Don’t call their use a defect unless you know it’s a defect. If staples were allowed at the time the shingles were installed, it’s not a defective installation.

Re-fastening can be difficult or impossible. The adhesive strips have to be broken on all the affected shingles, the shingles have to be re-fastened, and then all the shingles have to be hand-sealed. Shingles may be irreparably damaged, or they may never bond completely. Do not recommend that shingles be re-fastened.

Just describe the condition, and leave it at that. Nails Some shingle manufacturers specify that their shingles be fastened with nails. You won’t know which shingles those are, so that’s one more reason that confirming proper fastening exceeds the scope of your inspection.

Is it better to hand nail shingles?

Roof installation: Hand nailing or nail gun? From preparing the roof to installing leak barriers to applying the shingles, a roof installation requires an expert eye and lots of experience. Beyond expertise, the techniques that a roof installer employs also matter.

• Learn the benefits of hand nailing versus nail gun installation before replacing the roof of your Fayette home.
• Now thy roof Talk to your roofer about which method is right for your home.
• In most cases, the decision to hand nail or use a nail gun depends on the roof itself.
• Here are the factors that will dictate the roofer’s decision to use a gun or install nails by hand.

Sheathing Before installing the roof, the will inspect the sheathing. In many homes, wood materials are used for sheathing. If the sheathing is damaged, it should be replaced to ensure there are few gaps. The roofer should also inspect existing sheathing for gaps.

If there are too many gaps in the sheathing, the installer should avoid using a nail gun, as it won’t secure the shingle to the sheathing. Hand nailing the material is the better way to go, since expert installers can feel their way through the process and know if they’ve hit a gap. Installers will opt to use a nail gun when the sheathing is gap free.

Plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) sheathing are two materials in which a nail gun works well, as it’s an efficient, comprehensive method for installing shingles. Hand nailing, on the other hand, is not ideal, as it leads to inconsistent nailing, vibration on the roof and fatigue of installers.

1. Shingle type In general, standard-quality shingles cannot withstand the force of the nail gun and are easily damaged.
2. Higher-quality shingles are specifically designed for use with a nail gun.
3. If you’re opting for a standard shingle, be sure the roofer hand nails the material.
4. If you’re going with a premium shingle, nail guns are OK to use.

Installer The roofer you hire should have the expertise to use hand-nailing techniques and know when to employ them. Other factors, such as the roof deck preparation, along with sheathing and shingle type, dictate the best roof installation method. For answers to your questions about roof installation, contact Findlay Roofing today! We’re happy to help you with installation, repairs and maintenance.

What is the minimum pitch for architectural shingles?

Minimum Slope for an Asphalt Shingle Roof – IKO Roofing The short, simple answer is 2:12 has traditionally been considered the absolute minimum acceptable roof slope suitable for asphalt shingles. Asphalt shingles continue to be the most widely installed roof covering option in North America.

Do architectural shingles add value?

Are Architectural Shingles Worth the Extra Cost? – One of the potential drawbacks of architectural shingles is their higher cost compared to 3-tab shingles. Is it worth the extra money to have architectural shingles installed on your home? We believe architectural shingles are worth the extra cost for a few different reasons, including the following:

Added resale value: Having architectural shingles on your home can increase its resale value, since home buyers typically prefer these types of shingles. This means you could get a higher sales price for your home when you invest in these shingles. Versatile design: Architectural shingles can be made to look like other roofing materials that are more expensive, such as wood or slate. With these shingles, you can get the appearance of these materials at just a fraction of the cost. High-end standard: Architectural shingles are considered the standard roofing choice for high-end homes. Choosing 3-tab shingles instead could lower the value of your high-end home. Sophisticated appearance: Architectural shingles provide a more sophisticated appearance overall thanks to their dimensional look and texture.

In addition to architectural shingles, Pickard Roofing offers ornamental or design shingles for those wanting additional architectural interest such as a slate or wood shingle appearance. Do you need more help choosing the right shingles for your home? At Pickard Roofing, we offer dependable, high-quality services in the Raleigh-Durham area, including installations.

1. Our experienced roofers can help you choose the ideal shingle color and design to improve your home’s appearance and value.
2. At Pickard Roofing, we think Design. Craft. Renew.
3. We are experienced in all types of roofing systems- and provide the right roofing design and selective craftsmanship for renewing our customer’s assets.

We invite sustainable building customers to give us a call for your free evaluation. For over 90 years Pickard Roofing Company has installed countless metal, tile, slate, TPO, EPDM, and all types of shingle roofing in the Triangle. Our services including residential, commercial, custom architectural metal fabrication, and historical renovation.

What are the pros and cons of architectural shingles?

Consistency of Architectural and 3-Tab Shingles – Consistency or thickness with architectural shingles is another factor that differentiates architectural shingles from 3-tab shingles. They are quite a bit heavier and thicker than 3-tabs. A thicker shingle allows for greater endurance and strength and when it comes to wind and other extreme weather conditions, architectural shingles are considerably more durable.

Should shingles overhang the drip edge?

Ideal Overhang Length – Once the drip edge is installed, the shingles should extend ½ inch to ¾ inch past the drip edge. If the shingles are allowed to extend too far, then they can be caught by the wind and damaged. If they do not extend far enough, driving rain can get under them and damage the roof deck. The world of for roofing and siding products can seem confusing at times, even for the most experienced tradesman. Our team at understands, and we will help you choose the right product the first time around. We have over 70 years of experience in metal fabrication, and our designs are constantly improved upon by feedback from pro customers just like you.

How long do 30 year architectural shingles really last?

Shingles Do Not Have a Guarantee – Shingles come in various classes of lifetime guarantee. For example, you have the 30-year shingle, the 25-year, the 40-year, and lifetime – the manufacturers manufacture them in those segments. The truth is, a 30-year shingle will not really last 30 years.

How many layers are architectural shingles?

How many layers of shingles can be on a roof? – In most states, you’re only allowed to have 2 layers of shingles on a roof for fire safety reasons. However, you’ll still see roofs that have 3 or 4 layers today. If you already have 2 or more layers, a contractor will recommend a full replacement. But if you’re on a tight budget and the current roof has one layer of shingles, it is possible to do a nail-over reroof if the situation is right. Most roofs won’t be a good candidate for a nail-over.

1. To do a nail-over, an asphalt roof has to be near the end of its lifespan, and the shingles need to be lying down pretty flat (no lifted or cracked shingles, blisters, or bumps).
2. The asphalt roof also must have only a few penetrations, a small amount of flashing, and no walls that butt up against the shingles.

Ultimately, it’s up to what your contractor finds during the roof inspection that determines if a nail-over is an option for you.

What length roofing nails should I use for architectural shingles?

Length of Roofing Nails – Roofing nails are available in lengths ranging from one to two inches. Roofers seek to use just the right length of nail so that the decking (or OSB) is completely punctured by the nail. The puncture must be complete so that the whole diamond tip is past the wood.

Therefore, you have to plan out your sheathing thickness, shingle thickness and nail length carefully. If you’re using typical architectural shingles and 3/8-inch-thick sheathing, you’ll need 1‐inch nails. If your building codes require thicker sheathing, you’ll need 1 ¼-inch nails. When installing thicker shingles, you may need to use a longer nail in order to penetrate the OSB beneath fully.

Also, when installing ridge and hip shingles, you’ll need nails that are about a half an inch longer, as they need to penetrate more shingle layers. You may find roofing nails identified by their penny length. The penny system is an old way of classifying nails.

What do roofers use now instead of tar paper?

The Different Types of Roofing Underlayment Roofing underlayment or roofing paper comes in three common types:

Asphalt-Saturated Felt (Felt Paper) Rubberized Asphalt Non-Bitumen Synthetics (Synthetic Felt Paper)

Roofing underlayment is most commonly called Felt Paper or Ice and Water Shield even though they are different underlayment materials. The underlayment is an often-unseen yet crucial component of today’s, It is the layer of waterproofing material that protects the roof deck or substrate from water intrusion, in case the outer layer suffers damage. Asphalt-Saturated Felt The term “roofing felt” or ” felt paper ” came from the first type of underlayment material, asphalt-saturated felt. The backing material is functionally similar to tar paper but saturated with asphalt instead of tar as the waterproofing ingredient.

Felts were once the most popular underlayment option, but dwindling asphalt supplies made it give way to other materials. Asphalt-saturated felt adds stiffness to the roof deck, which improves its durability against impact from hailstones, airborne debris and large tree branches. Rubberized Asphalt Rubberized asphalt are like sheets of rubber when installed and while it does have the word asphalt in its name, it has little to no asphalt content.

Similar to membrane roofing used on flat roofs, rubberized asphalt is installed on the roof deck using special adhesives. One of the main benefits of rubberized asphalt is that it is inherently flexible, which makes it ideal for climates that experience both extremely hot and cold weather.

Weather is also a reason, The composition of rubberized asphalt varies depending on the roofing project’s requirements. Improved waterproofing, fiberglass reinforcement and sound absorption are just a few of these features. Similar to, rubberized asphalt can be patched in case a leak occurs, but the outer roofing layer will have to be partially removed.

Non-Bitumen Synthetics Modern roofs are likely installed with non-bitumen synthetic underlayment, These newer materials are made from hard-wearing plastics such as polyethylene or polypropylene and has seen use from food-grade containers to plastic models.

Non-bitumen synthetics display exceptional strength, elasticity and waterproofing, as well as inherent resistance to fungal growth. Roofing systems from manufacturers like GAF and CertainTeed feature this as the standard underlayment material. To learn more about underlayment materials, or if you need help from call Advanced Roofing Inc.

today at (630) 473-3008. You can also fill out our to schedule a free, no-obligation estimate. We serve Naperville, IL and nearby areas in Illinois. : The Different Types of Roofing Underlayment

Do you need black paper under shingles?

Roofing Felt Isn’t Always Necessary When Using Shingles Question: The home we’re buying has two layers of composition shingles, and the seller assures us that the new layer is only 1 year old. When the home inspector checked the roof, he found that the new shingles were installed without a layer of felt.

He also found a water stain on the living room ceiling and recommended that the roof be stripped and replaced with new shingles. The seller says these water stains occurred before the new roof was installed, but the inspector believes the lack of felt is a serious roof defect. Who should we believe? Is felt really that important, and what is roofing felt anyway? Answer: Roofing felt is a layer of tar paper installed beneath the shingles to provide a backup waterproof membrane in case of leakage.

Felt, otherwise known as underpayment, is required when asphalt shingles are installed as a first layer of roofing or when they are applied over wood shingles or a built-up roof. Some contractors and home inspectors believe underpayment is required when second or third layers of asphalt shingles are installed, but there is no basis for this opinion in the Uniform Building Code.

• In these instances, the felt beneath the older shingles is regarded as adequate.
• As to the ceiling stain in the living room, this may have occurred prior to installing the new shingles.
• If you have serious doubts about the integrity of the new roof, a second opinion should be obtained from a licensed roofing contractor.

But don’t let the lack of underpayment become a major issue for you, because it is simply not required for a second layer of composition shingles. Blame Lack of Venting for Rotted Framing Q: Now that I’m selling my house, a home inspector has discovered major water problems beneath the building.

The ground, it seems, is very muddy, with small puddles in various places. Worse yet, droplets of water are hanging from the floor joists, and this has apparently rotted the framing. I checked under my neighbor’s house to see if he had the same problem. His soil was also wet, but there was no water on his floor framing.

What could be the source of water on the wood structure? A: The water on your floor framing is vapor condensation, indicating a lack of adequate ventilation below your house. Excessive ground moisture is common in some neighborhoods, most often the result of geological conditions and subsurface drainage.

This typically occurs during and after heavy rains, but over-watering of landscaping can sometimes make it a year-round event. In most cases, as with your neighbor’s home, ground moisture below a building does not pose a serious problem. When sufficient ventilation is lacking, serious damage can result.

The building code requires cross ventilation of crawl spaces below dwellings, with vent openings equal to at least one square foot for each 150 square feet of floor area. When sufficient venting is not provided, the alternative requirement is to cover the ground with a plastic membrane.

To ensure proper ventilation, a licensed general contractor should review your home. However, since you also have rotted framing, the structure should be thoroughly evaluated by a licensed pest control operator (commonly known as a termite inspector). Inspections Are Smart, But Not Mandatory Q: I purchased my home one year ago, but no one advised me to have a home inspection.

As a result, a lot of problems became apparent after I closed escrow. It is now my understanding that a home inspection is mandatory with every home sale. What can you tell me about this requirement? A: In most states, including California, it is required that sellers and real estate agents disclose defective conditions of which they are aware.

• But you are misinformed regarding the relationship between mandatory disclosure and home inspection.
• To date, there is no requirement specifying a home inspection when a property is sold.
• Home inspection is an optional service, available to buyers upon request.
• Most real estate agents make it a practice to strongly recommend an inspection, but unfortunately, some buyers remain unaware of this essential service or simply choose to take their chances without one.

Consequently, a surprising number of homes still close escrow without adequate disclosure of physical defects. Shingles Show Signs of Premature Age Q: The buyers of our home hired a home inspector. According to the report, the edges of our roof shingles are curling.

This comes as a total surprise, because the shingles are only 5 years old. How could this roof be wearing out so soon? A: Curling can result from substandard manufacture of the shingles, but the more common cause is inadequate ventilation of the attic. With insufficient venting, an attic can become very hot during summer months, causing asphalt shingles to become dry and brittle after several years of exposure.

Code requirements for attic venting are minimal at best, and municipal building inspectors have the discretionary power to waive these requirements at the time of construction. With prematurely aged shingles, your first step is to inspect the attic vents, typically found at the gables, the eaves or on the roof itself.

• To ensure that they are clear of obstruction, look for visible light in the attic.
• Eave vents often become blocked with insulation, and low clearance within the attic can restrict your ability to clear them.
• If additional vents are needed, they are not difficult to install.
• An effective way to meet and exceed current ventilation requirements is to install turbine vents near the roof ridge.

For further details and specific evaluation of your roof situation, contact a licensed roofing contractor. Fireplace Without a Liner Is a Hazard Q: Three years ago, we installed a steel insert in our brick fireplace. It has been an excellent heat source and has given us no trouble.

• But last week, a home inspector described the insert as a fire hazard because it has no chimney liner.
• The cost of installing a liner is nearly $1,600.
• Is this repair really necessary, or are other solutions available? A: The main problem with most fireplace inserts is that homeowners or handymen install them, rather than qualified technicians.

When lay people perform their own installations, they often take the word “insert” too literally and merely inject the fixture into the firebox, as though it were a cassette, not realizing that the lack of a chimney liner can pose a major fire hazard.

Without a liner, functional problems are rarely apparent, giving the false impression that all is well. But with each repeated use, dangerous conditions are gradually taking shape behind the scenes. When no liner is installed, smoke fills the space between the insert and the firebrick lining, rather than rising directly up the chimney.

As these vapors pervade the cavity behind the insert, they become relatively cool, allowing creosote to accumulate on brick and metal surfaces. This ash-like substance is highly combustible. If the creosote becomes hot enough to ignite, the explosive force of the expanding gases can literally catapult your fireplace insert across the living room.

• The best way to prevent an accident of this magnitude is to install an approved metal liner to channel the smoke directly to the top of the chimney.
• Although the cost of installation may seem high, the expense is more than justified, given the potential consequences of an improperly installed insert.

Wood-Burning Stove Could Be Time Bomb Q: Last week, we found buyers for our home, but an item that was reported by their home inspector now poses a problem. Our wood stove, it seems, is too close to the wall paneling. I explained to the inspector that it’s been that way for more than seven years, and we’ve never had a fire problem.

1. As far as I’m concerned, if it isn’t broken, why fix it? What do you say? A: If we were discussing an old fence post, loose door hardware or a drippy faucet, I would agree that there is no urgent need to fix it.
2. But when the issue involves fire safety, the more appropriate cliche would be “don’t play with matches, or you might get burned.” To put it more bluntly, by the time it’s broken, it may be too late to fix it.

The fact is, your situation may be a slow time bomb. The wall surfaces near your wood stove have been heated and reheated numerous times over the last seven years. This involves a process called “pyrophoric action,” whereby the kindling temperature of wood is gradually lowered each time the material is heated.

• The fact that you haven’t had a fire is no guarantee that you or your buyers never will.
• I strongly advise that you check the manufacturer’s label on your wood stove to determine the required clearances.
• UL-listed fireplaces have placards stating this information.
• If no clearance data are listed on the fixture, have it checked by a certified chimney sweep.

The minimum wall clearance for an unlisted wood stove is 36 inches, unless approved wall protection is installed. The importance of maintaining proper clearances for your stove cannot be overemphasized. It could save your home and possibly a few lives.

What are the pros and cons of architectural shingles?

Consistency of Architectural and 3-Tab Shingles – Consistency or thickness with architectural shingles is another factor that differentiates architectural shingles from 3-tab shingles. They are quite a bit heavier and thicker than 3-tabs. A thicker shingle allows for greater endurance and strength and when it comes to wind and other extreme weather conditions, architectural shingles are considerably more durable.

Is it worth getting architectural shingles?

Conclusion – Not all home upgrade decisions are simple – but when it comes to roofing projects the choice between architectural shingles and 3-tab shingles is actually fairly easy. Between their greater curb appeal, longer warranty, improved home resale value, wind resistance, and impact durability, architectural shingles are undeniably a superior product.

1. If you are looking for a roof replacement keep in mind that in order to get the most from your chosen roofing material’s warranty you’ll need to have it installed by a certified roofer.
2. Rennison Roofing is a GAF Certified Contractor which means you can expect your roof to last as long as its lifetime warranty.

All you need to do to get started is contact us for a free estimate! : Are Architectural Shingles Worth The Cost?